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Keralites often crave the kalamakai, a kind of mussel that has the tang of the Malabar coastal sea that can’t be found in any other kind of shell fish. Deepa Krishnadas has made it her business to supply pickled kalamakai to faraway relatives and their friends. “When my family left Kerala, everyone would want to take this pickle with them,” said Krishnadas, who uses minimal salt and diluted vinegar in her pickles “to prevent health problems”. When kalamakai is not in season, instead of using farmed mussels, she pickles Malabar sardines, which she says are much better than those from the Bay of Bengal. She also pickles seer (king mackerel) or her hot favourite, prawns.

The fish is shallow-fried instead of deep-fried, to keep it plump. Then a mash-up of ginger, garlic, green chillies, salt, dry masalas, poppy seeds and a bit of sugar (to mellow the sourness) are cooked in gingelly oil and mixed with the fish and vinegar. The masala varies slightly for each kind of seafood. “These pickles were first made for the monsoon months, for people who couldn’t eat a meal without fish,” said Krishnadas. When the English meet, they talk about the weather, but “when two people from Kannur meet, they talk about the fish they caught”, she said.

Call Deepa Krishnadas at 0497-2766-554 or 0497-2780-8764 between 6-10pm. Crave couriers pickles to Mumbai in cooled Styrofoam packs. Kalamakai Rs 160, prawn Rs 240, sardine Rs 80, seer fish Rs 220. Kerala beef pickle and chicken pickle also available on order, Rs 130 each. All prices for 500gm.
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